The scratch may not look like it's ALL the way through the paint, but that doesn't mean you won't sand through the paint trying to get rid of it! What is safe to use by hand that is aggressive enough to remove the wet sanding scratches all the way? Causes The substrate was sanded with an abrasive that was too coarse. If the paper isn't getting rid of the scratches, you need a courser paper then go to finer and finer paper as you continue with the wet-sanding process. There you might use a circular motion. A word of . The FEPA grading system measures abrasive materials at closer tolerances, so there are actually more FEPA abrasive grades, and the scale is tighter than CAMI. Now, typically, my advice is to go straight to method number 2 and just remove the finish and start all over again. If there's like a nick, if you cut through then, I would recommend priming over raw plastic. You can usually get a nice smooth finish on the primer coat from sanding properly. Let the paper do the work. I usually stop at 180 grit. Lightly go back over any areas on your "flats" too to eliminate scratches you see. They are the result of not properly sanding the body or primer, filling in scratches with primer or sanding basecoat or single-stage finishes before you clear them. Your enamel top coats are going to be harder finishes so powdering is significantly reduced and sanding scratches will show more easily. Sand scratches. (Trout? It is not necessary to have a five-step sanding process to eliminate scratches. If you can still see a scratch, continue . And make sure you buff it really well, to basically fuse all your sand scratches. 9. New Wood Smooth new wood with 120 grit paper and finish with 150 grit (or fine sponges.) Thank you guys for tuning in on my Youtube Live Stream. You could end up sanding through the surrounding paint by the time you get to the botom of the scratch. In my very earliest days of woodworking, I used to think that sanding through all the different grits of sandpaper was for anal-retentive chumps. Should I add sanding with 220 and 320 before the 2k? Microfiber towels. You don't have to go crazy, you don't have to use an epoxy primer. Clear will only fill scratch's in itself basically. For deeper scratches, you'll need to start with a 1200 or 1500 grit papers. I suggest you buy a new sander Bosch, Fein, Festool or Metabo. You should be able to start with 150 grit (Mirka, Klingspor, good 3M paper discs) on planed boards. Jun 2, 2011 Skim with a filler, or spray a high build primer and sand it down. Then a clean microfiber is needed to wipe the car surface. Oct 12, 2006 Scrape away any loose or raised particles, such as loose seam tape, from the patched area using a putty knife. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. The paint shrinks more strongly in the sanding marks because of the higher film thickness with 100 grit. You could just use a 2k filler primer just hit that area. Next you would use 180 grit and sand until you can no longer see any 150-grit size scratches. So if you see sand scratches, just make sure you're down to fine grit, about 2000 - 3000, on darker colors for 3000. We do all our wet sanding with 500 and yet to use a sealer. Only a flat surface UNDER the basecoat will correct it. You could also try a light coat of primer, just enough to cover the surface, sand back and then apply a second coat with good coverage. Step 3: Rinsing and drying the area. Again, ensure that you scuff and sand in all directions to maximize the effectiveness of this process. If you properly primed and sanded your car a sealer is nothing but a waste of paint, money and orange peel period. It sands super quick. You can also use a regular, fine grit, sanding sponge (not wet) to put the finishing touches. Pay special attention to smoothing raised grain. The scratches are under the color and show up due to light refraction caused by the surface difference of the base under the clear. I take it to 2500 grit. Sorry, more clear won't help the situation. "Nonsense," I thought, "I'll just use some 60 grit to get out the larger defects, and then some 220 to smooth things out.". This will buy me a few more years before the inevitable happens. Dust washes off easily. Then use 200 or 220 grit and sand until the 180 grit scratches go away. Working on my first paint job and must not have sanded well enough since sanding marks are showing through the color.What is the pro. You can just as easily use 500- to 600-grit fine sandpaper to scuff shiny paint finishes. Once the finish is removed, and you are down to the bare wood, you can apply a fresh coat of polyurethane. Lean your head down so that light reflects off the surface of the wood. Much faster. You can also get the Aerosol cans like spray max. Notice: Using dirty or old rags in this step is avoided as these could result in more scratches on your car surface. The first coat would raise the grain and let you knock down the fuzz before the second heavier coat goes on. Shiny areas on the wood's surface are called "mill glaze." vermontpainter Registered Joined Dec 24, 2007 14,407 Posts If you blocked it like you would filler in a cross pattern those scratches seem to show more so then just sanding in straight lines. Carl Berendsohn - So.. The scratches you are see are 120 grit not 220. May 31, 2005 Depends on IF the scratchs are in the primer or color. PS. Not enough sanding. I'll see you later and maybe we'll just go live a little more. Removing scratches in thin paint is a much more serious issue. High quality paper is a must. Getting the Surface Smooth Prior to the painting process, you will have to work at getting all of the repaired body panels as smooth as is humanly possible. Using a light circular motion, buff the compound to a smooth finish. We only drop down to spot sand joints, etc. And so on, until you're satisfied. As it turned out, I was the chump. If in the color,you might be able to color sand and buff or most likely reshoot it. 1. Personally, I think anything over 220 grit for normal furniture is overkill. Do not push down hard. I would choose the high build method. Besure to use a soft block and soak the paper before sanding. Fine sandpaper. Time to redo the whole car. Just because it blocked out looking fine doesnt mean it will remain looking fine You can correct this problem by sanding the area with 1200-grit sandpaper and then polishing it. Metallic and pearl paints show off sanding scratches very well. If you ever use the Hookit system with just 1500 grit you will never go back. From contributor G: Use an inspection light properly and you can see all sanding marks plainly, even sanding marks you don't need to see and won't show. Dry sanding using DA. Sand scratches would appear if you sand too soon, applied too much primer, painted too soon, wrong gun used, number of reasons. The surface of the clear coat is flat. I know what you're thinking. "The whole reason we use microfiber towels is because they don't scratch the paint!" That's both true and false. Sand horizontal on horizontal joints and vertical on vertical. The plan was to strip the paint, do any necessary body work, epoxy prime. even with a 36hr dry time it can still be soft underneath causing the 400 to dig deeper leaving excessive marks. Add filler where it needs it, sand with 80, then 180, then shoot the 2k. Purchase a drywall sanding sponge (~$4.00 at any home improvement store), and use that for the final sanding pass. Sanding marks Definition Sanding marks in the substrate show as lines in the surface of the refinish paint. Does a better job getting into the corners than a sanding pole. Fill a bucket with water. Never use less than 1200 grit sandpaper on a car's paint. You using blocks? Dunk the sponge in the water, and then wring it out to remove as much excess water as possible. today we debunk the myths and shed the fear! On my crude monitor, the scales look very large. Wet sanding is the quickest and safest way to correct p. (scratch vs no paint left) When I run in to a problem like this, I will go to 4000 grit and if possible use a DA sander. Check your progress as the stain begins to disappear, instructs Wood Database. I will block the guide coat and shoot 1 or 2 more after allow that to dry and use a finer grit like 600. Pick your battles wisely, and learn to live with the lesser of two evils! Plus, the two top coats over the primer will generally mask any light scratch lines that were left in the primer finish. 3. You will then repeat the process . Remove The Finish First: This method involves you having to start all over again by removing the scratched-up finish. Wet sanding can be as scary as using the rotary to some. These are streaks, lines or marks that appear in your paint film. 1. Sorry brother to disagree but you can wet sand 800 all day long and clear over it with no scratches showing, i do it all the time. A good high-speed orbital sander shouldn't leave sanding marks visible to stain even at 120 grit. Maybe my memory is bad, but prepping seemed a little simpler back in the day. If they are in the primer,SOL my friend. Next step of car paint scratch repair is rinsing away the dirt and debris left after sanding the scratched area. If you need sealer to hide those sctraches, then you first need to invest in some finer grit paper not more paint. Remove sanding marks and smooth the surface with 120 grit sandpaper or the fine side of the sponge. It would take a lot of sanding with 220 paper to remove 120 scratches. Don't be afraid to thin until you get the results you are after. The only place the grades are equal . Tap the area lightly with a flat-faced hammer to create a slight indention and. If the metal is showing through the paint, wet sanding the vehicle will not be appropriate. kodiak2314 wrote: The base coat hide the 800 scratches but it was a blend in the fender so I didn't want but half of it so everything I sanded that base didn't touch you can see my 800 grit sand marks. It works very well, provided that the scratches aren't too deep.

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